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A JOURNEY THROUGH IRELAND
By Natalie Schwartz
May 2004
Soaring mountains, emerald green fields, herds of sheep, quaint seaside towns, painted villages, castles, extraordinary golf courses, vibrant cities and wonderfully friendly people. This is how I envisioned Ireland.
I had always dreamed of visiting Ireland and recently my dream came true.
I landed in Dublin and a short ride later I checked into the Four Seasons Hotel, located 10 minutes from downtown Dublin. In Dublin, every type of lodging can be obtained, from the luxurious Four Seasons Dublin to family-owned and reasonably priced Bed and Breakfasts.
Dublin, the capital of Ireland, is a thriving city. Cabs are plentiful and fairly inexpensive. The subway is called the "Dart" and is easy to navigate. The best way to see Dublin is by foot. Rimmed by the Irish Sea and sheltered on three sides by mountains, Dublin is one of Europe's most picturesque capitals. It is bisected by the River Liffey, which has no less than 14 bridges, the most famous of which if the Ha'Penny Bridge. The Temple Bar area, located in central Dublin, has become a very trendy area with numerous restaurants and pubs.
Some of the major attractions in Dublin consist of St. Patrick's Cathedral, St. Stephen's Green, shopping on Grafton Street, James Joyce Center, the birthplace of George Bernard Shaw, Trinity College with its Book of Kells - a handscripted and illuminated edition of the Four Gospels dating back to the 9th century or earlier. (Each day a new page is turned for visitor viewing). Not to be missed is the Guinness Brewery, the home of Guinness Stout, the distinctive dark beer recognized as Ireland's national drink.
About 40 miles north of Dublin is Newgrange, Ireland's best known prehistoric monument, 500 years older than the Pyramids and 1,500 years older than Stonehenge. This site is estimated to have been built between 3500BC and 2700BC and was used as a tomb in which Stone Age men buried the cremated remains of their dead.
After leaving Dublin, I took the southern route which most first time visitors to Ireland prefer. The roads were good although it took a little time to get used to driving on the left side. After traveling for a mere 45 minutes I arrived at the beautiful K Club. This resort with a country club atmosphere, offers golf, fishing, spa facilities and complete relaxation in a luxurious setting.
From there I continued through the beautiful Wicklow Mountains and arrived at Avoca Hand weavers, the oldest hand weaving company in Ireland, dating back to 1723. Here one can walk through and observe all stages of production from wool preparation, spinning, dyeing and on to the actual weaving process.
Continuing southwest, I visited Waterford Crystal Visitors Centre, one of the world's best known names in decorative hand made glass. A few of the towns along the way not to be missed were the picturesque seaport villages of Waterford, Wexford and Kinsale. After a short stop in the city of Cork, I arrived at Blarney Castle to see, of course, the Blarney Stone, and, if you think I kissed the Blarney Stone, you are wrong!!
I finally arrived in the most famous town in Ireland, Killarney, a natural treasure. A compact little town surrounded by lakes, mountains, waterfalls and lush foliage which exudes a pristine beauty, has been a magnet for artists, poets and photographers for many years. The lovely Killarney Park Hotel is located right in the center of town within walking distance of restaurants, pubs and shopping. This area is rich in tourist attractions and one can spend many days visiting the towns and sites along the way.
Ireland's most popular scenic drive is the Ring of Kerry, a 110 mile circuit of natural wonders and views. The drive itself is the attraction. The road is well paved and easy to follow as it curves around seafront cliffs, over boglands and through mountain passes. There are many small villages and pubs along the way as well as the 19th century Kerry Bog Village Museum, which shows how people lived during the great famine.
Another special drive was the Dingle Peninsula. Reaching out from the town of Tralee, like a thumb plunging into the Atlantic, the Dingle Peninsula is more rugged and remote than the Ring of Kerry. The roads are narrow and driving was slow, averaging about 20 miles per hour over the mountain passes. Though it is only 40 miles long, it takes a day "to do" Dingle. Driving through the mountains led to the Connor Pass, a scenic drive through the highest mountain range in Ireland. This road curves and twists, and rises to 1,500 feet above the boglands and beaches. The summit affords sweeping views of both sides of the peninsula.
After departing Killarney, I crossed the Shannon River by car ferry, continued north through the town of Adare known as "the prettiest village in Ireland". The village consists of one long street. You can walk through the town in 15 minutes, or you can take your time enjoying the architecture, gardens, local craft shops, galleries and pubs.
Next stop was the hauntingly beautiful Cliffs of Moher rising dramatically to a height of 668 feet above the Atlantic coast and stretching for five miles along the coastline. The highest point for viewing these cliffs was O'Brien's Tower, a Victorian-style viewing point erected in the 19th century. On that damp and misty day, with the spray from the salt water as it hit the rocks, I felt like I was in one of the old Irish Spring commercials. Magical and mystical are the only words that can be used to describe the Cliffs of Moher.
Next was a visit to Bunratty Park. Stepping into this theme park was like stepping back in time to a 19th century Irish village complete with authentic thatched-roofed cottages, farmhouses, watermill, working blacksmith's forge, post office, grocery store, doctor's office, print shop, school, church, drapery shop and pawn shop.
Bunratty Castle was built in 1425 and restored to its original splendor in 1954 with authentic furnishings, stained glass, tapestries and works of art reflecting the aura of the 15th century. A must here is one of the most famous pubs in all of Ireland, Durty Nell's, once the watering hole of the castle guards.
My stay in Ireland would not have been complete if I hadn't experienced one night in a castle. On my very last night in Ireland, I stayed at Dromoland Castle which is located 10 minutes from Shannon Airport. This baronial style castle with its turrets and towers was built in 1826 amid 400 acres of parkland and gardens and an 18-hole golf course was a wonderful experience! I felt as if I had traveled back in time and my knight in shining armor was about to sweep me away into the night.
Ireland was all I had always envisioned. I was especially touched by the simplicity, sincerity and good-natured spirit of the people that I encountered throughout this wonderful country. And of course, there's something magical about being called "M' Lady".
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