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RIVIERA MAYA AND CANCUN TRIP
By Marla B. Schaffer
June 2004
Having been in the travel industry for over 25 years, I'm probably one of the very few agents who has not already been to Cancun. As with clothing that you put away and then take out years later when it comes back into fashion, Cancun is a destination that has had more than several resurgences over the years.
My journey began on Friday, April 30, 2004 with a flight from New York's Kennedy Airport to Cancun, non-stop in less than 4 hours. I was surprised when we approached land that we didn't see beautiful water, as all you really see upon approach to Cancun is jungle.
The airport is quite small but modern, giving the feeling of any major US Airport, with the added touch of several nice shops selling Mexican products. The immigration process can be lengthy depending on the day of the week and number of arriving flights. .
I must say that I consider myself a pretty well traveled individual and I rent a car and usually drive in most destinations that I have been to. Yet, coming to Mexico and planning to drive I had a great deal of apprehension. Be it concerns of the roads, not knowing the area and what to expect, not speaking the language, or the stories my parents used to tell me many years ago about the "bandits" and not to travel by car or venture out of main areas - let's say I was a bit uneasy. However, within minutes of departing the airport, all my concerns disappeared. The roads are wonderful, everything is well marked, and there really isn't any way to get lost. As a tip, when renting a car in Mexico, make sure to check the car for any damages, scratches, missing hubcaps, spare tire (there and the correct size for the car), and have everything noted on your contract. It is also strongly suggested that you take out insurance. Do keep in mind that the cost of insurance and local taxes nearly doubles the rental cost. I was surprised that English was not spoken or understood as much as I thought it would be. However, in most instances it was easy to communicate and even obtain driving directions with hand signals. Gas for cars is pumped for you – but only cash is accepted for payment.
My first stop was actually away from Cancun, south to the up and coming area known as Riviera Maya. About a 20 minute ride from the airport brought me to the Paraiso de la Bonita, an Inter-Continental hotel. This 90 room, all suite property brought back more memories of being in Bali then Mexico. Room service is 24 hours; gym, steam room and sauna are also 24 hours and no additional fee. Two restaurants on property one for breakfast and lunch daily and dinner on selected days, the second restaurant for dinner only on nights other restaurant is closed, pool bar for beverages and snacks. Filled with a minimalist Asian feel, it is easy to say that this hotel is definitely a one of a kind hotel experience. The suites don't have numbers here, they have names, mine being Jaipur. First floor suites all offer small plunge pools and some also have outdoor showers. Although second floor suites lack these additional amenities, they offer dreamy views from the balcony. My favorite time here was sitting out on the balcony (very comfortable lounge chairs) and reading, with just the slightest breeze and sound of the ocean waves. The pool at the hotel is beautiful and it appears to just float into the ocean. Nothing can compare to lying on the permanent stone lounge chairs in the pool so that your body is cooled by the water as you bask in the sun. This very private resort offering wonderful accommodations, excellent service, good food, full spa is well worth a visit.
Next day we journeyed out to Tulum, one of the areas historical archeological sites. About a 90 minute drive south of Riviera Maya, and again, very easy to find as it is one straight road. On the way you will pass:
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Playa del Carmen – a large cruise port with shopping and restaurants
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Xcaret (pronounced ish-car-ett) which is an ecological theme park that gives you the chance to observe native species such as marine turtles, deer, monkeys, birds, orchids and butterflies. It also offers recreational activities such as scuba, snuba and snorkeling and guided nature treks. They have a very popular dolphin program here.
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Xel-ha (pronounced SHELL-ha) which is a clear blue lagoon filled with fish that was sacred to the Maya. They offer a swim with the dolphins program here. You can't use your own sunscreen as they provide one that is eco-friendly.
Tulum is small and compact and is the only Maya site located directly on the sea which really is a spectacular setting and only adds to its beauty. Even with the sea breezes it is quite hot, so hat, sun screen, good walking shoes, and a bottle of water are strongly suggested. After entering the parking lot you have a choice of paying $2 US for a tram ride to the site or walking half a mile. After purchasing entrance tickets $4 US, you walk about 200 yards, then up a slight hill and you're in the sight. You do have the option of walking through on your own or paying additional for a guide to explain the history and each of the structures, which is very beneficial. Remember – you're in Mexico, so everything is negotiable. Guide fees will depend on how many people are in your party. Once you exit the site, tram or walk back, there are souvenir shops, snack bar, restrooms ($0.25 USD fee). The shops here carry the same merchandise you will see all over the area. Rule of thumb – if you see it and like – buy it, but you must bargain. Don't bargain just for the game of it as this is considered bad manners. Only bargain if you are interested in buying. You should start off offering half of the asking price and then meet someplace in the middle. On the journey back north from Tulum, there are several stores you'll pass along the way on the side of the road offering the same merchandise.
Next stop brought us to our next hotel, Maroma. After entering the front gate it appears to be a long drive thorough a jungle like road to the entrance of the hotel. It is a bit overwhelming to have an entire staff lined up to meet you – one person to assist you out of the car, two or three others welcoming you, one offering a cold towel while another offers a margarita – a very strong margarita! This hotel appears to be large, yet it is only 56 rooms. Each room is different in size and shape. The hotel was fully booked so I was unable to see other room categories, but was quite disappointed in mine, room 32. Small shower, no tub, toilet is practically in the shower, sink in an open area off the bedroom, small room. The highlight of this hotel is the beach, directly on the aqua waters of the Caribbean Sea with soft white powder sand. There are very few settings in the world that are this spectacular. They have a no cash policy here which is quite nice. You never sign anything and the gratuity is automatically added to all food and beverage charges. After being there for less than a day, the staff remembers which room you are in and are never even brought a bill. Beds here are extremely hard and sheets are a bit rough. Good service, good food. Their spa is still under construction here and should be completed in a few months. For now they do offer massages in room or on beach.
One comment that I can make about both of my hotel experiences in Riviera Maya is that the level of service was quite high. Although there were some minor issues at both hotels that I noticed, the Mayan people are extremely nice, friendly and want to do everything possible to allow you to enjoy yourself and enhance your stay. They seek acknowledgement and a thank you – recognition appears to be more meaningful to them then money.
Off to Cancun –
Cancun to me was a mix of Miami Beach and Las Vegas without the gambling. From one side of the island to the other, it's hotel after hotel, mainly on the Caribbean Sea side, with restaurants and shops on both sides of the street. The hotels all give a quite massive feeling. The Ritz-Carlton Cancun was my destination. Upon entry it was just like expected – marble floors, crystal chandeliers, a bit formal. Once inside you wouldn't know which Ritz-Carlton you were in. Guest rooms are comparable to most Ritz-Carlton hotels as are the marble bathrooms with double sinks, separate shower and tub. Service is quite high as well as friendly. Spa is small in terms of sauna, steam, Jacuzzi area, although there are numerous private treatment rooms. Appointments are difficult to obtain, even though spa services costs here are high. Do reserve your spa appointments in advance so that you won't be disappointed. The beach is spectacular and a room with an ocean view is well worth the additional cost. Even on the top floors you can hear the ocean surf at night.
During our stay we went for a visit to Royal Hideaway and were quite impressed. This resort is rated as the only 5-star hotel in the area. It is comprised of about 200 rooms within 3 categories – luxury, junior suites and presidential. Junior suites are duplex rooms. No children under 13 allowed and honestly even for children 13 and older, unless they can entertain themselves, they wouldn't be happy here. Nice beach with two adjacent pools, one for swimming and one for activities. Several additional smaller pools are located throughout the property, one in each cluster of buildings which are comprised of mainly two levels with a few three level buildings. A personal Concierge is located in each building. Several restaurant options with mostly a la carte menus, although there is a buffet breakfast and lunch option daily, and one buffet dinner per week. Rates are all inclusive including premium bar drinks and several activities are also included in rates. Spa services are available at an additional cost. I would highly recommend this property for weddings, honeymooners and couples of all ages traveling without children. Located directly across the street is a shopping complex with a good representation of what Mexico offers. Additional shopping is available in the town of Playa del Carmen, only 5 minutes away.
Don't forget to pack your sunscreen as the Mexican sun is quite strong! Best buy, Kahlua at the airport for $10.50US.
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