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China Trip
by Victor and Julie Pizzolato
October 2006
 We departed JFK, New York on October 12th at 12:30 pm on Japan's ANA Airlines for a 13 hour nonstop flight to Tokyo. Crossing the International Date Line, we arrived Oct 13th at 1pm local time, before catching our next flight which would take us to Shanghai. With a total travel time of 19 hours since our New York departure, we arrived in Shanghai and were greeted by a private car, driver and tour guide and escorted to the JC Mandarin Hotel in Shanghai. The accommodations were magnificent. We slept for 7 hours and then started our personal tour of the city sights in Shanghai with the private car, driver and tour guide. Shanghai has 17 million people and is the gateway to China for business and investments by many foreign firms. It is also the busiest since it felt as though all 17 million people, buses, cars, scooters, bicycles and walking people were on the streets the same time as we were. The traffic with all this activity is mind boggling. There is very little attention to any traffic rules and most people maneuver the best they can going any which way, even driving on both sides of the street and also on the sidewalks. It is a sight to see how they get around without accidents. There are very few traffic lights and when the lights turn green it is a free for all. Even though we were not physically driving the vehicle it took a few hours of driving to get used to this. Gasoline here is approximately $1.40 per gallon. Most of the newer scooters are electric now.
Shanghai is a very modern city with many high rise buildings, a modern subway, mostly paved streets with curbs, great restaurants and many fine shopping centers. This city by far has embraced the Western ways and adopted it into their own Chinese culture. There is much construction going on here and they mostly work on high rise buildings and streets at night since there are too many people on the streets during the day. The main roads are very modern and speed limits are variable - fast. We visited many old Temple sites dating back 400 to 1,000 years which are well maintained by the Chinese government and local people. All Chinese are very proud of their heritage and can quote historical facts, places and dates perfectly when asked questions. The air quality of the city is poor and heavy smog is about every day, sometimes blocking the sun. It was warm and humid – about 85-90 degrees most days.
 We visited interior city neighborhoods where most people live in apartments that are very small and with bare necessities. Even in central Shanghai the apartments are down back alleys with little sanitation. Some running water exists but kitchen space and amenities are very ancient, either coal or propane stoves. Good restaurants have more modern facilities and are very clean. The living apartments are below 300 square feet. Any apartment over 600 square feet is considered luxurious and is expensive. There are many old multi-story apartments within the city that are 7 to 8 stories high without elevators. These are usually occupied by families with more than 4 people. The government is starting to construct many high rise apartment complexes outside the city to accommodate many people who are being displaced from the inner cities in order to renovate old apartments or build new high rise office buildings. The government owns and rents these apartments to the Chinese people at reasonable costs. Some apartments can be purchased, but are very expensive and are only afforded by the wealthy people.
We visited many outlying villages that still do not have modern conveniences as indoor plumbing, kitchens that still use coal or bottled gas, sleeping rooms that do not have beds but hard wood benches and only rough cotton filled covers for mattresses. Some floors had only concrete and some had only dirt floors. All homes and shops were neat and clean but very old. They were
hundreds of years old passed down from generation to generation. Grandparents, children and grandchildren still live and work together. There is a trend for the teens and older children to go to the bigger cities to find work and better pay to help improve their families living conditions. Electricity does exist in most outlying villages. Education is valued highly and many parents struggle to get their children better education in higher learning institutions at a great expense if they do not receive scholarships from the government or from special vocational interests. Some go on to government jobs whether local or military. Most people are orderly and we did not see many gang kids or drug using people. We were not approached by beggars of any kind. There are many products being sold that are copies of what we have here in the USA at ridiculously low prices by people on the streets everywhere.
We spent some time in Sou Jou, a city approximately 1-1/2 hours driving distance from Shanghai, visiting a beautiful 300 year old garden made for a wealthy landowner and left to the Chinese people to visit and enjoy. They had daily performances of Chinese operas which we attended and the gardens were magnificent with different flowering plants, Bonzai trees, chestnut and elm trees, waterfalls and thousands of gold fish swimming everywhere. The walls surrounding this Garden Park had a Dragon constructed atop them that was continuous from beginning to end. Many locals as well as tourists go there every day. We were also treated to a dinner show of Chinese Acrobats and Motorcyclists one night. It was a spectacular performance.
We left Shanghai for Beijing after 3 full days. Beijing is the Chinese capital and has 15 million people. Even though it's the capital this city is not as modern as Shanghai. Our hotel was a five star facility and our accommodations were excellent. We had breakfasts, lunch and dinner provided for us through out the whole trip in 5 cities and a private car with chauffer and tour guide all through China. Traffic is just as bad here, but more organized and a lot slower. This city is preparing for the 2008 Olympics and is renewing or tearing down old structures making way for new buildings. They have a modern subway, streets are wide and well maintained and we saw more police and army units than we saw elsewhere in other cities. Pay scale for working people is about the same as other major cities in China except Hong Kong. Tianeman Square is a sight to behold. It is so large, it is unimaginable to explain. You have to visit it to feel how large it really is. It has to be a mile square in size and holds 500,000 to one million people at a time. There is a tomb within the "square" for the Chairman Mao where people come to visit every day and pay homage. The day we went the waiting line around the whole one mile Tianamen square to see Chairmen Mao's body at rest was 4 abreast and approximately 4 hours long. The Forbidden City, (Emperor's private city), is gargantuan in size. The largest structural columns and walls are even larger than Egypt's temples. This was constructed in this large size to denote power by the emperors of the time. This complex has 9,999 rooms within its walls. The number 9 was only used by the Emperor to denote his supreme existence and power. Yet his personal house within the Forbidden Complex was only a large building with only 6 rooms of modest size and few amenities except for a gilded throne and room that it sat in. The Emperor and his department heads, some priests and close family were the only people allowed to live within this city with him.
 China does not embrace any one religion. They have over centuries known Confucianism, Buddhism and other minority cults. Today the Chinese Government is acknowledging the Catholic religion of which there are many followers and the churches they go to worship in. There are few other religions including the Jewish faith. We went to attend a marriage of my cousin Mark to a Chinese woman in Beijing. Mark is American born, of Italian descent, from Boston, Massachusetts. His wife Rong is born of Chinese descent and has lived her whole life in Beijing. When you marry in China both people go to a local Government office and apply for a marriage license and are at that time granted permission and are given a "passport type" document for him and her that officially says you are married. That's it! Then both can have a private wedding ceremony of any type they wish. Some elect to have private dinners with family and close friends at a local restaurant and some have very elaborate Western Type affairs in larger hotels similar to what we experience here in the USA. My cousin's wedding was a small local dinner party which Julie and I gave as a wedding present to bride and groom and her family in a Tibetan Restaurant in Beijing. We ate, sang and danced with much enjoyment.
The Family is still the most important of all units in China and grandparents are respected and children are expected to take care of them until death. Cremation is the method used for the dying and ashes stay within the family. There are few cemeteries that we were able to see in our travels and only were seen sparsely in outlying suburbs where there was some more room available to do so. Every inch of land is cultivated for food production. The Government owns all the land in China and grants farmers parcels of land to produce crops of which a certain amount must be sold to government markets for people to purchase at government set pricing and then all other production can be sold privately. Produce is brought to market by some large trucks from larger farms or by small 3 wheeled vehicles by the local farmers themselves. Some still use "carts" pulled by hand or animal to transport produce or goods to market. Even big cities like Beijing still see these 3 wheeled vehicles or carts being drawn. However no animals are seen in the city's main streets. The pollution in China is staggering and the government is now planting many trees to absorb this heavy carbon monoxide from vehicles and manufacturing. The Chinese people were very friendly and accommodating to both of us and it looks as though they entertain Westerners visits since they are taught and practice the English language in schools and daily life. They are orderly people except when they drive, etc. The Forbidden City, its many temples and the very large Tianemen Square are all laid out in a straight line with each other with the "square" being between The Temple of Heaven, a very large complex housing the Emperor's religious beliefs and artifacts only used and visited by the Emperor and his priests and closest advisors.
 This Emperor also started construction of "The Great Wall" to keep out invaders. He unified China's many different fiefdoms by conquering each region then instituting law and order through out. The "Wall" was built over many centuries and goes from East to Western China for approximately 4,000 miles and goes up and over all obstacles including the top of mountains. Julie and I spent a half day visiting this reconstructed portion of the wall outside Beijing. If you have not visited this huge constructed wall when you visit China it is said "you have not visited China". The wall is so large that it can be seen from outer space. I managed to climb to the highest local point of the wall with many other Chinese people. It was like climbing a high mountain with small steps and many people along side you. The width of the walk way atop the wall can hold 3 cars across to give you some feeling of size. We had great meals and different varieties of Chinese food while in Beijing.
 We left Beijing after 4 days for Xi'an, a 2 hour plane ride away and a city more inland that is famous for a Ming Emperor's tomb and the Terra Cotta Soldiers he had constructed for his afterlife. The "soldiers", horses and chariots are life size and were individually cast and placed shoulder to shoulder in 3 pits on the outside of his tomb area. Each "pit" we visited was 3 football fields in size and some pits were as yet still not completely excavated. Some of pits 2 and 3 were excavated showing the thousands of statues standing side by side in battle dress and formation protecting the Emperor in after life. This Emperor was said to be neurotic about his being invaded after death. He must not have been a very kind Emperor to his subjects in lifetime. Xi'an is similar to other larger cities, but population is much lower, in the one million range. A slower pace exists outside the city limits with many small crowded markets for food and other products. The hotel accommodations were equal to Beijing. Very good quality and modern. Food was excellent and different from Beijing and Shanghai. Our driver and guide were very informative about history but poorer on what was happening now in this local area. The guide could repeat word for word what she was taught by the Chinese Government before being allowed to be a formal Guide. Most of the guides in China working for any Tour Agency are completely trained by the Chinese Government and work for "CITS" (Chinese international travel service). This city is growing due to many visitors both from foreign and Chinese visitors to this "Emperor's Tomb and Soldier" complex. Xi'an did not have an Emperor's palace since this Emperor wished to have his tomb not close to his palace so "grave robbers" would not know of his tombs whereabouts. However they found his place of burial anyway.
We left Xi'an (Shee-an) after 3 wonderful days and went on to Guilin, an hour plane trip away. This city is noted for its Liu River tour along a waterway through limestone peaks and gorges which look like different shaped animals. You need to use your imagination after the guide tells you what they think they are. This tour was a 4 hour boat excursion which held up to 75 passengers and a regular Chinese dinner was served on board. There were many boats on this river tour at the same time all with people who had their guides with them. Along the river we saw many small towns and farmers plowing fields by using water buffalos which were seen laboring or just in the river eating river bottom weed and cooling themselves. It was very warm this day, 85-90 degrees, however the river breeze helped. Many vendors were approaching our river cruise boats trying to sell food and other trinkets from rafts made of bamboo. Some children swam out to each boat and many of us threw coins in the water which they would dive down to retrieve. At the end of the tour we needed to be driven back to the main town by private car and we visited various farms including a tea plantation along the way. They had a special private "tea ceremony" for just Julie and I and the guide, to experience 5 different kinds of tea grown there and how to prepare water, steep the tea leaves and serve it.
The teas were excellent and we purchased some to bring home with us. It's a "green tea" with very small leaves. This tea has a nice aroma and taste. Another day we were then taken on a tour of a village which had very little changes from 500 years past where people lived along a stretch of river and received all their food from locally grown private farms and fish from the local river. Their houses, market, local government and other necessities were very sparse. They lived in houses that perhaps were constructed over 100 years ago or longer but were maintained in good repair. They had electricity but their sanitation was primitive. They were washing clothes in the river also. Yet when we visited one house, premises were very clean. The kitchen as before was primitive with gas bottle heaters for burners and water drawn from the river or local well. Sleeping was on hard bunks with quilts for cover and mattresses. The people we spoke with seemed happy with their lot. They had local stores as doctors and prescriptions available. These same little stores also were recuperating houses for people who need post-operation attention or for some other illness that required they be watched professionally. One of our tour guides was married to a doctor who worked for the government and did this kind of work in the suburbs of Gulin. Accommodations here were excellent in another 5 star hotel with all meals provided of excellent quality. This evening we went to a Chinese opera at a dinner show again. The colors and costumes were magnificent. The presentation was not to be forgotten too quickly. I took many photos of this performance.
 We left Guilin after 3 days for Hong Kong, a 2 hour flight. We arrived in Hong Kong at 12 midnight and we were not met by our expected personal car or tour guide. After some phone calls we spoke with the head of tour operations and we were informed that due to miscommunication we were expected to arrive at 6 PM not 12 midnight. We were placed on a bus for a 1 hour ride from the Hong Kong airport but we were pleasantly surprised that due to the tour operator's error we had been upgraded to the Intercontinental Hotel in Kowloon and given a very large suite on the 11th floor overlooking Hong Kong harbor. They brought up food and beverage to our room and asked if there was anything else we needed. A comfortable shower after a long day being awake from 6AM the previous day was welcome and enjoyable. The scene from our windows of this suite at night looking out at the lighted buildings and traffic on the river was magnificent. Next day breakfast overlooking the Harbor was very enjoyable. All our breakfasts throughout our trip in China were continental breakfast feasts. You did not require lunch after these breakfasts, but we were treated to lunches anyway. And we ate! Hong Kong is the "Pearl of the Orient". This city has more foreigners staying and visiting than most other cities in the world by size. There are approximately 600,000 residents on real estate that is vertical.
The cost of apartments range from $120,000 for a 600 square foot apartment to millions, depending on size and location. Some 1,500 square foot apartments are considered for very wealthy people and the cost can be over $400,000. Most local workers earn from $600 to $1000 per month in wages. The very wealthy are either business men from mainland China or foreign nationals from other parts of Asia and foreign companies who have a residence here in Hong Kong for business dealings in China and the far east Asian countries. The very wealthy have condos or villas situated going up the mountainsides to Victoria Peak. This peak has access for tourists to visit and we were brought there by bus to see the entire city of Hong Kong and the Harbor below. The sight was spectacular even with the amount of smog in the atmosphere. They even had a market for tourists half way up this mountain to purchase various items. We did a great deal of shopping here in the 1 hour given us. Prices and quality was very good. Hong Kong has many means of transportation. Cars are popular, but there is heavy road congestion even though the roads are modern and organized with lights and signs. The best way we found to get around was subway, which was extremely modern and clean and ferries from one side of the river to the other. We had a chance to visit and ride on very old boats used by locals called "Sampans". These boats are used for fishing, transportation and housing by local fisher families. They cluster in one area of the harbor and appear to be quite primitive. No sanitation, etc. Our trip in small sampans was informative, colorful and quite inexpensive, $7.50 per person for 45 minutes on the river. The shopping here in Hong Kong is magnificent. They have products here from all parts of the world in better class of merchandise, Prada, Versace, Ferragamo and Giordano, to name a few. Their stores are the best appointed and merchandised of any city in the world. Their prices are high also even though they are duty free. Some of these stores are in underground malls with most being in the central part of the city. High-rise buildings have many foreign companies occupying space. We needed to change our return flight arrangements and we were required to go the Central district in order to get Continental Airlines to issue these tickets. The trip from our Kowloon hotel took ten minutes by subway and a full ten minute walk through a shopping area full of tourists and everyday workers. You can purchase every conceivable item on the planet in Hong Kong, and any copy as well. We were very fortunate to know a Mr. William Leung, the Chief Commandant of Immigration, in Hong Kong. While there he made us very comfortable by taking us to areas for eating and shopping that we would not have ordinarily seen. He took us to a flea market called "Ladies Market", which is only open at night from 8pm to 1 or 2 am. They sell everything you can imagine at prices which cannot be equaled any where else. This was a great shopping experience. The lights in Hong Kong at night are better than Times Square in NYC. We experienced a bus ride through town also. Hong Kong is a different experience than mainland China. It is now owned by the Chinese Government since September 1, 1999, but operates as an autonomous province. There is more "westernization" here than in any other part of China.
However China is slowly opening up its doors and economy to capitalism and will be a very different place within 5 to 10 years if they continue to open their country to capitalism and with television and internet expansion. This Chinese culture has been in existence for at least 7,500 years and has much to offer the rest of the world in art and music.
Our 16-day trip ended with a 15 hour direct flight from Hong Kong to Newark, New Jersey. This trip to China was a very educational experience of a very different culture and an enjoyable visit with the everyday Chinese people.
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