ICELAND By Marla B. Schaffer November 2005 Each year at the end of summer my niece, Lindsay, and I take a trip. I really enjoy the opportunity to show her the world, revisit the places I've been - seeing them through her eyes, and for us to experience new places together. Our destination for this summer was Iceland. Iceland's stark, pristine scenery has been shaped by fire and ice: More than 200 volcanoes and numerous glaciers form the country's landscape. It's a frozen land that's always letting off steam. Its U-shaped valleys, jagged lava fields, monstrous icecaps, hot springs and geysers have carved a rugged, bizarre landscape you won't see anywhere else on Earth. But you don't need the fortitude of a Viking to enjoy Iceland. In fact, you can experience many of its extremes in relative comfort.   Despite its relative isolation and untellable terrain, Iceland has one of the highest standards of living in the world (with sky-high prices to match). The '90s saw its discovery by tourists - it's actually a destination in its own right rather than just a long layover on connecting Icelandair flights. Icelanders, like many islanders, are self-confident and reserved, but once you break the ice, so to speak, they are among the friendliest in the world. Of course, they, too, have their extremes. Although weeknights in Reykjavik, the capital city, are usually quite sedate, the wee hours during the weekends (particularly Friday nights) can get downright raucous, as stylishly dressed young people observe a rowdy, drunken party-on-the-streets ritual known as the runtur, or circuit. The Republic of Iceland is an island nation of about 39,756 square miles and is located in the northern Atlantic Ocean, between Greenland and Scotland, and northwest of the Faroe Islands. Unlike neighboring Greenland, Iceland is considered to be a part of Europe, not of America. The island is the world's 18th largest island. The island has four national parks: Jökulsárgljúfur National Park, Skaftafell National Park, Snæfellsnes National Park and Þingvellir. The island itself has many fjords along the coastline, which is where most cities are located. The island's interior, the Highlands of Iceland are an uninhabitable desert. The main towns are the capital Reykjavík, Keflavík, where the national airport is situated, and Akureyri. The island of Grímsey, on the Arctic Circle contains the northernmost habitation of Iceland.   Its highest peak is Hvannadalshnjúkur, and over 11 per cent of the country is covered by glaciers, including Vatnajökull, the largest in Europe. Iceland is a hot spot of volcanic and geothermal activity and natural hot water supplies much of the population with inexpensive, pollution-free heating. Iceland was settled by Nordic people in the 9th century. The Icelanders still speak the language of the Vikings, although modern Icelandic has undergone changes of pronunciation and, of course, vocabulary! Much of Iceland is still taking shape before your very eyes  -  raw, dramatic landscapes born from volcanic eruptions and carved out by glaciers. Other parts have hardly changed since the first Viking settlers saw them more than 1,100 years ago. Our trip to Iceland was quite educational. Departing at night from New York with only a 5 ½ flight and a four hour time difference at this time of year, we arrived at Keflavík International Airport, located about 30 miles from the capital. After being met at the airport by our guide, we immediately started our tour driving through the Reykjanes Peninsula. Iceland is the result of volcanic eruptions and this part of the land is just miles and miles of lava fields. After seeing this area, it is easy to understand why the Apollo astronauts did their training here stating that the land was as close to the surface of the moon as you could get on earth. Throughout the drive we also passed numerous areas where you could see the steam emitting from the surface of the land from the thermal waters. We headed for the lighthouse on the westernmost tip of the peninsula. This is a magnificent area with rich bird life. At Eldey Island, which is just outside the shore, there is one of the world's biggest breeding colonies of the Northern Gannet. You can feel the forces of nature and hear the surf crashing at the beautiful basaltic cliffs. It's simply magical! From there we continue through the lava fields to a nearby fishing village, Grindavík, with its numerous fish processing factories and sheltered harbour entrance.   Our next stop was The Blue Lagoon (www.bluelagoon.com), a natural open-air geothermal spa in a lava field which is open year-round, located about 35 miles outside of Reykjavik and near the city's airport. Fee includes use of the pool, saunas, showers and locker rooms. Towels are available for a small fee. Here we actually had the opportunity to swim in the thermal waters, naturally heated by the earth. The Blue Lagoon is milky blue in color and varies from warm to hot based on the areas you swim in. It is totally relaxing, softens the skin, and is a great way to revitalize yourself after a flight. We even tried the mud that is available in pots around the Blue Lagoon which bakes into your skin very quickly and offers an instant facial. Our home for our stay in Iceland was Hotel Holt, part of the Relais and Chateaux group. After checking in to the hotel and getting settled, we went on a city tour of Reykjavik, Iceland's major city. About 295,000 people live in all of Iceland, and about 156,000 live in Reykjavik. It didn't take long to see that this city is immaculately clean, free of pollution, comprised of very friendly and hospitable people, and extremely safe. In fact, there is only one small jail in all of Iceland and it happens to be located near one of the weekend/summer communities with a beautiful view of the Atlantic Ocean. Reykjavík city, also known, as “smoky bay” is the world's most northerly capital. The name derives from the first settlers who noticed steam rising from the ground from the hot springs in Reykjavík. The city, although small in population, has everything larger cities have to offer including interesting museums, galleries, delightful restaurants and cafés. Reykjavik's unique proximity to nature, with salmon river Elliðaá running through it, a thermal beach at Nauthólsvík, green valleys and outdoor swimming pools, make this city second to none in the world. It was a long day for us so dinner this evening was an early one at the hotel, which has one of the best restaurants in this city - five star international dining and service. After a good night's sleep we rose early the next morning and began with a plentiful breakfast at the hotel - yogurt, granola, bread, cheese and fruits and then departed on a full day Golden Circle Tour with visits to Thingvellir National Park, Great Geysir area and Gullfoss waterfall.   On this tour we encountered a cross-section of Iceland's natural wonders, geology and history, and made numerous stops along the way to experience the present and the past of Iceland. We walked around the world-famous Geysir area, a geothermal field where hot springs are in abundance, geysers explode and pools of mud bubble. A geyser is a special type of hot spring that erupts periodically, ejecting a column of hot water and steam into the air. The name geyser comes from Geysir, actually named after the best-known geyser in Iceland. Geysers are quite rare, requiring a combination of geology and climate that exists in only a few places on Earth. The Great Geysir of Iceland had stopped erupting regularly by 2000. Eruptions could only be triggered by the addition of surfactants to the water. Following an earthquake in Iceland in 2000 the geyser began erupting regularly again. Initially the geyser erupted about eight times a day. As of July 2003 the geyser erupts around three times a day and is steadily becoming less active again. One of many highlights of this tour was the volcanic crater, Kerið, and another was Gullfoss waterfall, the queen of Iceland's waterfalls, tumbling down a deep gorge. Finally, but no less spectacular is a visit to the Þingvellir National Park, the very place where the first settlers held their annual parliamentary assembly and where the earth is ever so slowly pulling Iceland apart along tectonic plates. After a full day of touring we had time to return to the hotel, shower and change for dinner at the Restaurant Pearl. The Pearl is perched above large water tanks on a hill overlooking the city. The locals feel that the restaurant structure looks like a pearl, but to us it looked more like a space ship - quite spectacular both on the inside and out and slowly revolves over the city offering great views. This time of year there is very little darkness in Iceland so when we left the restaurant at about 10:45pm the sun was just setting. Our taxi driver was quite impressive as I paid him the fee along with a tip and he returned the extra money to me saying that I paid too much. I soon found out that it is not customary to tip a taxi driver in Iceland. A new day has arrived and we set off for a tour of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula Words cannot express the mystery and wonder of the Snæfellsnes peninsula! The cone-shaped, ice covered strato-volcano Snæfellsjökull has captured the imagination of people all over the world, ever since Jules Verne wrote “The Journey to the Centre of the Earth” in 1871. For nature lovers this is definitely a "must see" location in Iceland. On Snæfellsnes peninsula, amazing works of nature culminate in the glittering glacier on mystical Snæfellsjökull - the area is Iceland's newest national park. The shore abounds in bizarre rock formations and bird life, and coastal villages include Ólafsvík, a whale watching cruise base. From Stykkishólmur, we took a cruise across Breiðafjörður Bay with its swirling waters, "countless islands" and period-piece houses on Flatey Island, once a major cultural centre. This bay is known for its stunning beauty with the perfect frame of mountains high and low, highlighting the scenery. On the southern islands of Breiðafjörður Bay is a fantastic variety of bird life, including puffins, eider ducks, kittiwakes, fulmars, cormorants and the white-tailed eagle. A high point of the boat tour is when a net is hauled in and everyone can taste the shellfish and sea-urchin roe (caviar). I was daring and did try raw scallops pulled from the sea, but Lindsay decided to pass. After another full day, coupled with the sea air, we were quite exhausted so we just stopped at a local restaurant on our way back to Reykjavik and ate a light dinner.   Today we ventured out on The South Shore Adventure. At Seljalandsfoss - we had the opportunity to stand behind the plummeting waterfall, and Skógafoss - high waterfalls with a soul. This was actually featured in one of the episodes of the TV series, The Amazing Race. En-route we passed beautiful farmland, sandy coastlines, amazing rock formations and glaciers in the distance. This historic area is the main stage for the notorious saga of Njall. Other sights included Mt. Eyjafjöll - towering over some of Iceland's most wonderful countryside, Vík - the southern-most town in Iceland, and Eyrarbakki a quaint, picturesque village. The weather was beautiful so we had a picnic lunch outdoors overlooking the sea. For our last day in Reykjavik we planned on taking a Dolphin and Whale Watching trip in the morning. Conveniently located in Reykjavík's old harbor, a 20-minute journey can bring you up close to whales in their natural habitat. Whales most frequently seen on these tours are the Minke whales, Humpback whales, Dolphins and Porpoises other species are sometimes spotted. You are normally accompanied by sea birds such as gannets, puffins, guillemots, cormorants, gulls, kittiwakes, arctic terns, and many more. Unfortunately the winds were very strong today so our excursion was cancelled and we spent our time shopping in town. A return to the airport, allowed us time to turn in our VAT (they actually pay you on the spot for the tax here and you also have your choice of currency for reimbursement), a bit more last minute shopping in duty free, and then a 4:45pm departure, arriving back in New York at 6:45pm local time. Our flight actually got in 30 minutes early which is always a nice gift.   Our trip to Iceland offered us glaciers, waterfalls, clean air and water, hot springs, walking, hiking, trekking, unbelievable lava landscapes, bird watching, the midnight sun, whales, Central Highlands (uninhabited uninhabitable and unforgettable), Northern lights. A once in a lifetime opportunity to experience wilderness and wildlife, energy and total calm. Additional information on Iceland: Potpourri Iceland is virtually treeless. The growing season is very short, so the few trees that exist are small and grow very slowly. The land's history is beset by volcanic eruptions, most notably one that erupted continuously for about 10 months in 1783, belching poisonous gases that destroyed pastures and crops. Almost 75% of the country's livestock and 20% of the people died from the resulting famine. Icelanders all seem to know each other - or at least to be related. Nearly everyone living in the country can trace his or her descent back to the settlers listed in a 14th-century book called Landnamabok (Book of Settlers). Cod sales make up some 60% of Iceland's fish exports. The clarity of Iceland's air improves visibility. On a clear day, it is possible to see the snowcapped tip of the glacier Snaefellsjokull from Reykjavik, even though it is almost 75 miles away. Icelanders' names are based on the patronyc system: A child's surname is based on the father's first name. A boy would take his father's first name, and then add the suffix son to it. A girl would do the same but would add dottir instead. Phone numbers are listed by the first name. Swimming is a way of life in Iceland. It's a compulsory part of the school curriculum, and many business deals are made in heated pools, most of which are heated with geothermal water. Icelandic horses are known for their unique gait, the tolt (similar to that of a Tennessee Walker). Icelanders claim the tolt makes the ponies very comfortable to ride for hours at a time. One of the highlights of our trip was stopping to feed the horses who are quite friendly and very gentle. When they eat from your hands, it's like they are giving you a kiss. They actually like bread more than sugar cubes, but they don't like the cheese on the bread so we had to take it off. Nearly everyone in Reykjavik speaks a little bit of English, with the under-30 crowd quite fluent. Iceland is the most educated nation in the world, boasting 99.9% literacy. They also boast one of the longest life expectancies and cleanest environments in Europe. Anyone taking along horseback-riding gear or fishing equipment must have it all sterilized by a veterinarian (and have a certificate verifying the fact). A 1,000-year-old ban on livestock imports has left Iceland animals free of contagious diseases - and they want to keep it that way. Though it belongs to NATO, Iceland has no military forces. Since 1941, it has relied entirely on the U.S. for defense (there's a NATO base in Keflavik). Dining The local food, consisting primarily of all types of seafood (salmon, cod, shrimp, herring and dried fish) and lamb, is fabulous. Favorite dishes are Hakarl (raw shark), graflax (raw salmon with herbs), hangikjot (smoked mutton), skyr (a type of yogurt) and hverabraud (rye bread baked underground). Many of the vegetables and fruits are locally grown in greenhouses heated by hot springs. If you see svid on a menu, be forewarned - it's boiled sheep's head. In Reykjavik, there is quite a variety of international cuisine, including Spanish, Italian, Indian, Chinese, Thai restaurants, and pizza too. Restaurant Suggestions Einar Ben Veitingahúsið Einar Ben Veltusundi 1 101 Reykjavik Telephone: 511-5090 www.einarben.is  The Seafood Cellar Restaurant Aðalstræti 2 Telephone: 511-1212 www.sjavarkjallarinn.is  Siggi Hall Þórsgata 1 Telephone: 511 6677 www.siggihall.is  Lækjarbrekka Bankastræti 2 101 Reykjavík Telephone: 551 4430 Italia and Galileo - great pasta and pizza Shopping Shop for woollen goods (sweaters, jackets, blankets, scarves), gold or silver Viking-theme jewellery, Icelandic art (paintings, photographs, etchings or ceramics), stamps and coins, smoked salmon and herring, lava ornaments, Icelandic folk and popular music, and sheepskins (for cribs, car seats or rugs). The Reykjavik Handicrafter's Center near the Harbor has excellent sweaters and other local items. Stop by 66 Degrees on Laekjargata for great clothes to wear in the cold weather. Their cool caps make perfect souvenirs. The Keflavik International Airport's large duty-free shop has a few bargains, although some items are more expensive than in the downtown (nonhotel) shops, which aren't duty-free. Kringlan, in downtown Reykjavik, is the city's major shopping mall, with 40 to 50 shops carrying everything from Icelandic lava to Christian Dior fashions. Smaralind, another shopping mall, is located in Kopavogur. Shopping Hours: Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm; Saturday 10 am-2 pm. Hours may vary depending on the season. Kringlan and Smáralind are open 7 days a week. Health Modern medical and hospital facilities are found in Reykjavik and the surrounding areas. Smaller towns have more limited facilities. In Reykjavik and other geothermal areas, the water may have a slight sulfur smell, but it won't hurt you (locals will reassure you that it's good for your complexion). It's safe to eat the food and drink the water in local restaurants or out of the tap. Dos and Don'ts Do be aware that many roads outside Reykjavik are unpaved. Use caution while driving, particularly during the winter months, when days last only a few hours and weather and road conditions can change very quickly. Don't stray from the orange-colored dirt while hiking around the boiling geysers and mud pools near Lake Myvatn. Hikers have been killed after falling through areas of yellow, green or gray soil. Do take along waterproof clothing if you plan to go hiking. Do take along swimsuits. Swimming in the natural hot-springs pools is a grand experience. In most towns and villages, you can swim in the pools for a small fee (they're frequently closed to the public during school hours). Currency Exchange Iceland's currency is called the krona. You can find the best exchange rates at local banks. ATMs are located throughout the country, and nearly every shop, bar and restaurant accepts most major credit cards. (Visa and MasterCard are more widely accepted than American Express) Weather Because it's on the Gulf Stream, Iceland is much warmer than most people think. The best time to visit is from mid June to mid September, when days average in the 50s F and nights are generally in the 40s F. From mid May to mid June and from mid September to mid October, it's still fairly nice, but with slightly cooler temperatures. The winters are cool and very windy, but mild (often milder than those in Montreal or Chicago), with days in the 30s-40s F and nights in the 20s F (sometimes colder). The weather can be erratic, however, and sudden showers, fog and drizzle can occur year-round. Be sure to take at least a sweater any time you visit. Because of its far-northern location, Iceland gets very little sunlight during the winter - in December and January, there are no more than three or four hours of daylight. You can actually experience 4 seasons in one day!

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